How to Become an Equine Vet


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Expert Author Carole McClelland
What do I have to do to become an equine vet is a question that we are asked regularly. If this is your chosen career path it is a very competitive one and so it is important to start preparing as early as secondary school.
The first real chance you get to start preparing is choosing your options for GCSEs. We would recommend that you choose to take separate sciences where possible along with Maths and English and choose other academic subjects rather than arts or drama.
The next thing is your organised work experience with school. Try and get in early and get a slot with the local equine vets, if places are likely to be fought over it may be worth planning this way ahead so that you get the first slot.
This one week of work experience will not be enough to secure you a place at veterinary school. In addition to this you should try and get as much experience as possible over summers and other holidays whilst still studying for GCSEs and A Levels. This should include not just within veterinary practices but also on farms, working yards, even at a Zoo if possible. The more experience you can get the more likely you will be to show the selectors that you are serious.
Once you have your GCSEs you will need to move on to your A-levels. At A level the minimum requirement is 2 A's and 1 B however some universities will only consider 3 A's. The subjects you will need include Biology and either one or two subjects from Maths, Chemistry and Physics depending on the university. If your third subject is a non-scientific subject it must be considered an academic subject, again drama, arts and 'soft subjects' will not be considered.
Your school or college will advise you when you need to start looking at your university options and it is worth noting that the applications for vet school often close before applications to other courses so your UCAS application needs to be in promptly to be considered.
There are seven approved veterinary schools in the UK. These are: Liverpool (which has a fantastic equine unit and should be considered as a primary choice for those wanting to specialise in equine down the line), Glasgow, Cambridge, Bristol, Edinburgh, Nottingham and the Royal Veterinary College London.
Once you get in to university you will find that your student life is very different to those studying other courses. You will be expected to attend lectures from 9 till 5 everyday where as your peers might not do that many hours in a whole week. You will also find that you are unable to use your holidays to earn extra money as you will be out on placement and will not have time to hold down a job.
You do not specialise as an Equine Vet while at uni you still need to study the main stream veterinary course and register with the RCVS. Once graduated you may wish to join a specialist practice as a junior to gain more specialised experience with horses however you may also need to consider that depending on availability of work when you graduate you may have to spend some time in general practice.
To get further information on this or similar topics please visit Equine Professional Articles. We provide a range of articles full of useful information for those who work or are considering a career as an Equine Professional

What You Need To Know About Feeding Senior Horses


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Expert Author Rob Domarkas
In this article I would like to share with you some useful information about horse care. In particular I would like to talk with you about feeding senior horses.
The fact is that as our horses get older their bodies do not function just as good as they once did. One of the main reasons why older horses don't look as good as they once did, one of the main reasons why older horses start having joint and bone problems is because of nutrient deficiency.
You see, as our horses get older their digestive systems don't function as good as they once did and with age horse's ability to digest feed and absorb nutrients becomes less efficient. If you want to make sure that your horse gets all of the essential vitamins and minerals, you should start supplementing your horse's diet with a high quality feed balancer that has:
  • Above-average levels of fat content to provide more energy that comes in a form of calories. The fact is that fats have high caloric content and it's good to supplementing senior horse's diet with something that will provide with with all of the energy that he needs.

  • Above-average levels of high quality proteins to provide all of the essential building blocks that are needed to support muscles.

  • EU approved pre and pro biotics to improve digestive system and increase nutrient uptake.

  • Above-average levels of glucosamine. Glucosamine aids in renewal of connective tissue in and around the joint and it is particularly important for you to look for senior horse feeds that contain ingredients that strengthen and support bones and joints. In addition to glucosamine you should also look for feed balancers that contain enhanced levels of calcium and phosphorus to help guard against bone demineralization.
The fact is that there are a lot of different types of feed balancer formulations. Some are specifically formulated for horses that are involved in competitive horse riding disciplines, others are formulated for everyday use and there are others that are specificically formulated for veteran horses. If you do now know where to start, if you don't know what ingredients to look for in a high quality feed balancer, then use the guidelines that I have just shared with you to make sure that you end up buying something that will give your horse all of the essential vitamins and minerals that your horse needs to be healthy and strong.

How to Take Care of an Elderly Horse


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Expert Author Rob Domarkas
In this article I would like to share with you some useful information about how to properly take care of an elderly horse. More specifically I would like to talk with you about two different types of horse supplements that you should be giving to an elderly horse.
The fact is that elderly horses have different nutritional needs when compared to their younger companions. Their digestive systems are not working as good as they once did, their bones and joints are not as strong and they once were and in general, years of pounding and twisting of horse's joints left them vulnerable to an injury.
The fact is that your elderly horse will never look and feel the same as he once did, but with proper diet and supplementation you can make sure that your horse remains in the best shape he possibly can. In this article I want mention two different types of supplements and ingredients that you should be looking in them if you want your elderly horse to get everything his old body needs to function properly, feel great and look good.
Veteran feed balancers.
There are a lot of different types of feed balancer formulations. Some are formulated for everyday horses, some are formulated for competition horses and there are also balancers for veteran horses.
Feed balancers for horses are just like multi-vitamin supplements for humans with few extra ingredients. They are packed with all of the essential vitamins and minerals that your horse needs to be healthy and strong, and they also contain extra ingredients such as pre and pro biotics which in digestion and increase nutrient uptake.
Most of the feed balancers also contain oils such as soya oil and linseed oil which in combination with certain minerals such as zinc promote healthy, scurf-free skin and a glossy, gleaming coat.
Joint supplements for horses
In addition to feed balancers you should also start supplementing your horse's diet with high quality joint supplements for horses. Such joint supplements are packed with all of the essential ingredients that stregnthen and support the joint.
For example, we have already learned that as a result of constant pounding and twisting joints of elderly horse's become vulnerable to an injury and as a horse owner you want to do whathever is possible to strengthen and support your horse's joints.
Mainly you want to look for joint supplements for horses that contain ingredients like glucosamine and MSM. These two ingredients are proven and tested by time and thousands of horse riders worldwide have used them to help their horse's joints. Glucosamine aids in renewal of connective tissue in and around the joint, whereas MSM provides necessary building blocks that are needed to repair the joint.

Avoiding and Correcting Bad Behavior in the Horse - Naturally and Effectively


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The spirit, strength, and might of horses are what attract so many; these traits are admirable and awesome to behold. Sometimes, however, these same traits make the horses we love not so likeable - and not so safe when being handled on the ground. Why do these traits come out, and how should they be handled when they do?
Why do our horses get horsey with us?
By nature, horses are prey animals. This means they're usually looking out for their own safety, looking for predators, and ready to flee without notice; however, within their own herd (to which we - by proxy - belong) horses are less shy. Horse herds have a social order and most horses occasionally will test to see if they have possibly moved up the ranks.
Do not make the mistake of taking these times of boundary testing personally. Horses will try and test you and these boundaries to see if they can rise in the proverbial pecking order. Sometimes horses innocently forget that the human is supposed to be the top of the list. When any of these situations occur, they usually show up as a lack of respect - either passive, or active.
Horses show lack of respect through various actions.
Some signs of lack of respect are as follows:
  • Walking ahead while being lead.
  • Crowding with the shoulder, head, or neck.
  • Turning the rump to the owner in the stall or pen.
  • Nipping, biting, striking, kicking, or threatening any of these actions.
  • Pinning the ears back towards the human.
  • Pulling on the rope - either backwards or forwards.
  • Tossing their head.
  • Stepping on your feet.
  • Rubbing their head against you or pushing with their head or body.
Some of these actions are relatively harmless. Others can be quite dangerous and should be remedied immediately. In all cases, these actions are symptoms of an attitude that can go from bad to worse if the horse is not shown immediately that while we respect them, we also demand respect. In addition to making a point to learn *why* these actions are occurring, horse handlers can demand respect through body language and consistency to shape their horse's behavior into something safe and enjoyable.
Demanding respect kindly leads to longer, better relationships with the horse.
Demanding respect no longer means bullying, beating, or overwhelming the horse. Let's face it - these beautiful creatures vastly outweigh us; believing that we can muscle them around is wrong and dangerous!
A horse that is muscled-around does not respect their owner; they fear them. When the fear is outweighed by another fear, the horse will leave the owner high and dry for their own safety. Instead, horse owners should strive to build a partnership and leadership role for the horse so that when things get tough they look to the handler for the decision making.
Horses are looking for leaders - be that leader!
By their very nature, horses are looking for leaders; they function best in a society where there is a clear leader who gives consistent and clear signals and an expectation of respect. In the herd, this role is filled by the alpha-mare or another alpha-horse who gives signals by arching and lowering her neck, pinning her ears, gritting her teeth, even taking snaps and occasional kicks at the most disrespectful of her herd.
In the stable, horses need to see us as the alpha horse. Note: at no point was it said that alpha-mares constantly kick, bite, and harass their herd members. They do not behave that way, nor should we. Instead, as alpha horses, handlers should use a consistent body language that never waivers to show kind but serious leadership.
You can and should be the alpha-mare in your relationship with your horse.
You can show your position as the alpha-horse through body language which is easily understood and readily interpreted by the horse. In a pasture, if there is a pan of feed, all the horses will gravitate towards it; however, if you watch carefully, you will notice that usually at least one horse will get closest to that pan and eat. All other horses stand by, warily waiting their turn.
The one horse, the alpha horse, tells the others that they have to wait by pinning her ears, making rushes at the other horses, tensing her body as if to kick, and giving "the stink eye" to the other horses.
Being the alpha-mare consists of easy body motions.
Some ways you can show your horse that you are the alpha-mare of the relationship, deserving respect, are as follows:
  • Bending over at the waist and tensing the upper body.
  • Placing an arm up in front of your body and walking towards the horse.
  • Throwing the arms out while bending forwards, displaying a great deal of body energy towards the horse.
  • Swishing the end of a long lead rope (preferably with a popper) towards the horse - either in front or behind as a tail would move.
  • Standing straight up, looking directly at the area of the horse that we want to move, without any relaxation in our bodies.
  • Walking with a great deal of energy toward the horse, or even lunging towards them.
  • Showing the horse clearly in which direction we wish them to move - either with body language, or a combination of body language and using our leading-arm to point/direct them in the right direction.
These actions not only show intent but also serve to help move the horse as needed if this energy is directed to a certain portion of the body (discussed below).
On the other hand, when we want to show the horse that we are relaxed and have no problems with their behavior, we let the pressure off with the following body motions:
  • Standing with our backs turned towards the horse, relaxed.
  • Standing with one leg relaxed and bent, as they would do a back leg when resting.
  • Letting out all breath in a sigh and slumping the shoulders.
  • Taking our eyes off of the horse and instead onto something in the distance.
  • Letting our arms rest by our sides or behind our bodies.
  • Walking away.
These actions not only show the horse that the pressure is off, but can help stop motion that was caused by pressure-creating movements.
Know when to put the pressure on - and when to remove it.
Knowing when to put on the pressure (and where), and when to release it is key in teaching your horse to be respectful and enjoy it. In the herd, an alpha horse will put the pressure on to move the horse's feet (and thus the body) from one spot to another - generally away from them. As humans, we direct our energy towards certain points on the body to do the same.
Important points of pressure for the horse create movement.
To move the body forward or the hindquarters away from us, we direct whatever energy (eyes, movement, or rope) to the hindquarters. Think of there being a spot directly in the center of the side of the horse's haunches as a target for your energy.
To move the horse away from us laterally, to the side, or forwards, direct energy towards the very center of the horse.
To move the forequarters away from you and possibly move the horse forward, direct energy towards the shoulder.
To move the horse backwards or away from you without moving forwards, or turn the horse around, direct your energy (but never the rope) towards the center of the jaw.
Releasing pressure at the right moment makes all the difference.
When the horse makes even the slightest motion to comply with your request, switch immediately to "release" mode: relax your body, turn away, or whatever motion is appropriate. Be sure to do this immediately as time is important.
Dangerous actions; know how to recognize the unforgivable actions.
  • Dangerous actions include:
  • Biting
  • Striking with the front legs
  • Pawing with the front legs
  • Rearing
  • Nipping
  • Threatening to kick
  • Kicking
  • Bucking "at" you.
Apply the "Three Second Rule" to correct unforgivable actions.
When a horse performs any of the dangerous and unforgivable actions, immediately and consistently use John Lyon's "Three Second Rule": during the 3-seconds following the dangerous action, you use your energy and rope to "kill" the horse (or make him think you are going to do so).
Using the Three Second Rule does not give us license to physically damage the horse, but it does mean that you can and should your popper on your rope to hit the horse (as a horse would kick him back if he dared to make a dangerous move towards them), and definitely to make the horse MOVE and move a lot.
Important: never, EVER use a rope at or around the horse's face. Not only will you create a head-shy horse, but you risk blinding them. This is the human's unforgivable action - so never do it, please.
Use movement to avoid dangerous actions.
Remember: a horse whose feet are moving is less likely to be able to do any of the dangerous actions. A horse has to stop to rear, has to stop to kick you, has to stop to nip, and gets further from you when moving making them less likely to hit you with a bucking kick towards you.
If you have a horse acting dangerously and you can see a dangerous action is about to occur, make the horse move in a way that will not allow them to act dangerously. If the horse is going to rear, make them move forward by putting pressure on their hindquarters. If the horse is going to bite, make them back away from you or do anything to redirect their attention and energy.
It is always BEST to redirect the action before it occurs rather than correcting it once it has, if possible.
Horses are lazy by nature; use that laziness to end their bad habits.
Horses are lazy by nature; if a horse finds they have to move when they do things that are dangerous, and move every single time, they'll be a lot less inclined to bother.
Use every ounce of your angry-alpha-horse motion towards a horse when they dare to act dangerously towards you. If you were truly a horse, this is exactly how you would handle the situation. This is the type of "language" that horses understand immediately without having to have it translated for them!
Using your Alpha-Language for less serious situations is very effective.
Because horses understand the alpha-horse language by instinct, you can use it to your advantage for less-serious issues such as pushing, crowding, pulling, etc.
Understand the personal space bubble for horses and humans.
Humans have a bubble of personal space that we would prefer not be invaded by our 1000+ plus equine friends. A good rule of thumb is the length of your own arm equals your reasonable personal space. This distance around you is your personal space and should be respected by your horse. The horse should walk beside your shoulder or a little behind at all times at approximately an arm's length from you.
Horses also have a personal space which we would do well to respect. This means that you should not lead the horse by gripping directly beneath their chin, but give *them* space as well with the lead rope and your body. Horses can be claustrophobic. Crowding their space makes them more antsy and uncomfortable.
Two common issues and how to correct them:
Crowding:
If you lead a horse that likes to crowd you, use the tail of your rope in your left hand and swish it behind you to lightly pop the horse on its side. This will cause the horse to move away from you. Don't worry about turning around to look at the horse; this stops forwards motion, and besides - as alpha horse you don't have to. Just swish.
If you were a horse, you would swish your tail in annoyance and it would pop the horse too close to your rear. Since we're born without tails, use the rope. If you have ever been swished by a horse tail, you know it has a light and startling sting without being painful or long-lasting or aggressive. Mimic that with your rope. The moment the horse is outside of your space, immediately resume what you were doing as if nothing happened. This releases the pressure and rewards them.
Pushing ahead of the leader:
If you have a horse that is to forward, this is the time to turn around and direct your energy towards the front of the horse to get them to back away from you and respect your space. Most times this simply means using your body language, wiggling the rope, or swishing your rope-tail towards their front. As soon as the horse is out of your space, release all tension and resume what you were doing by turning away from them and carrying on.
Let your horse make mistakes; correct them after, not before, they happen.
As humans, we learn (or at least we should learn) from our mistakes. If we are not allowed to make mistakes, we won't learn or grow much. Horses are the same. Many people make the mistake of trying to overcorrect a horse by keeping an action from happening.
As an example, if a person has a horse that walks up on them and won't stop, too often the person will grip the lead rope directly beneath the chin and keep tension on the halter and rope to prevent the action. As a result, the horse feels pressured and often will resort to tossing their head, yanking the halter trying to get slack on the lead rope, or other annoying actions. This usually leads to more gripping, and the cycle worsens.
If instead we allow the horse to do what they will usually do and then kindly, confidently, and swiftly correct the action the horse will have an opportunity to learn how to behave correctly in the first place. Just as with children, sometimes you have to let the horses make their mistakes so that they learn the consequences and how to avoid those actions.
Make the wrong thing hard, the right thing easy.
Another key to allowing a horse to learn how to behave correctly is by making the right actions easy and the wrong actions troublesome. For example, a horse that walks correctly on the lead rope without crowding will not feel the gripping hand under their chin, will not feel the sting of the swish of a rope-tail, and generally be left alone. A horse that does crowd should always find that they feel that swish and are often made to do more, such as walking away from the owner.
Given an option, horses will choose the proverbial path of least resistance. In other words, they will choose whatever option means the least work and least pressure for them. Walking nicely on a lead leads to no pressure and less work. Crowding leads to more pressure and more work. Biting leads to lots of pressure, possibly pain, and movement. Not biting leads to no pressure, no pain, no work - a simple and obvious choice to a horse!
Consistency is a key concept.
Horses long for consistency; as prey animals, they like things to be safe, consistent, and predictable. This means that once you set up a behavior rule, you must always reinforce that rule. Slacking on reinforcing rules means your horse will not respect you as a leader. In their minds, they will think "well the last time I nipped him just a little, I didn't get punished - so this time I'm going to try it a little harder." Be fair to your horses and keep things constant with them; they will flourish in this environment and have confidence in your leadership.
In between bad behaviors - be your horse's friend.
Alpha-mares aren't always bossy and cranky; most of the time they are sought after by the other horses because they offer safety. After all - horses know what to expect from an alpha mare. Most of the time, the alpha mare has the respect she needs to be able to relax. You should, too. Be sure to give your horses rubs on the forehead or shoulder to show them that you are a kind leader, their friend if still their leader. They will appreciate you all the more for it.
That being said, remember that when they cross the imaginary line from friend to pushing things a bit, to kindly remind them exactly where the line is drawn. They'll love you for your consistency and look to you, instead of away from you, in times of perceived danger.
Shape your horse's behavior - you can do this!
With just a little understanding of the nature of the horse, reinforcement of easily understood rules, and easy body motions, any horse can be a well-behaved, enjoyable, and happy partner. Rather than breaking their tremendous spirit, we can shape that energy and spirit into a safe and long-lasting relationship to be treasured.
With just a little understanding of the nature of the horse, reinforcement of easily understood rules, and easy body motions, any horse can be a well-behaved, enjoyable, and happy partner. Rather than breaking their tremendous spirit, we can shape that energy and spirit into a safe and long-lasting relationship to be treasured

What To Feed a Horse - Essential Horse Supplements


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Expert Author Rob Domarkas
In this article I would like to share with you a little bit of information about what to feed a horse. More specifically I would like to talk about several different horse supplements and how they can help your horse to look and feel better.
The fact is that there are dozens if not hundreds of different types of horse supplements. There are horse calmers, garlic supplements, digestive aids, coatshine supplements and plenty of others. This massive choice of horse supplements leaves a lot of people who are new to horse riding confused. People who have very little experience with horses think that the best way to make sure that their horses get everything that they need and the only way to ensure that their horses look and feel good is to buy as many different horse supplements as possible.
The truth is nowhere near that and if you are not involved in competitive horse riding disciplines and if you horse's workload is not extremely high then you only need one or two supplements.
Horse Feed Balancers
One of the main reason why some horses tend to have poor coats, lack condition and in general one of the main reason why some horses don't look good is simply because nutrient deficiency. If you want to make sure that your horse looks and feels great you have got to supplement your horse's diet with all of the essential vitamins and minerals that your horse needs. Specifically I'm talking about things like iron, copper, zinc, linseed and soya oils, pre and pro biotics, biotin and etc.
The good news is that most of the high quality feed balancers in the market contain the vitamins and minerals that I have just outlined and they will dramatically help to improve your horse's overall health and well being.
For example linseed and soya oil in combination with zinc will help you to promote healthy skin and glooming coat.
Minerals such as copper and iron act as blood building minerals which increase the number of red blood cells within the bloodstream. This increase of red blood cells improve oxygen transportation around the body which aids in performance.
The point I'm trying to make is that feed balancers contain everything that your horse needs to be healthy and strong.
Joint Supplements for Horses
In addition to feed balancers you should also supplement your horse's diet with high quality joint supplements. The fact is that as a result of constant pounding and twisting horse's joints become very vulnerable and as a horse owner you want to do whatever is possible to prevent joint injuries.
Joint supplements contain ingredients such as glucosamine and MSM which strengthen and support the joint.

Here's What You Need To Know About Equine Joint Supplements


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Expert Author Rob Domarkas
In this article I would like to share with you some important information regarding equine joint supplements. Over the past six months or so I have noticed that the amount of companies selling different types of joint supplements for horses has increased dramatically. It looks like every single week a pet supplement company launches a new range of joint supplements for horses and all of these products appear different. They look different only on the surface level, when in reality they are essentially using the same ingredients. Most of the high quality joint supplements for horses contain the same ingredients and in this article I would like to share with you some information about what exactly you should look for in high quality equine joint supplements.
The first and probably the most important ingredient that you should look out for is rosehip extract. On the 19th of May, 2009 The Daily Telegraph (one of leading British newspapers) has published the results of a scientific study conducted by Dr. Robin Christensen from Frederiksberg Hospital in Denmark and the results of the study concluded that rosehip extract is 40% more effective than glucosamine in joint supplements.
In addition to rosehip extract you also want to look for supplements that contain both organicMSM (Methyl-sulphonyl-methane) and Glucosamine HCL. I know that in the previous paragraph I have mentioned that rosehip is 40% more effective than glucosamine, but the fact is that glucosamine is still very good, especially if it's combined with MSM, because these two supplements work in perfect synergy with each other.
Glucosamine is an important and effective agent in helping to support strong and healthy joints. It is vital for the renewal of connective tissue in and around the joints. In addition to this Glucosamine also aids in the renewal of the synovial fluid (joints' natural lubricant). MSM on the other hand provides essential building blocks which are vital for tendon and ligament repair.
Finally you want to look for joint supplements that contain Yucca. Although not the most important ingredient in joint supplements, Yucca is also very good when it comes to maintaining strong and healthy joints. Native Americans have used Yucca for centuries to help their horses maintain strong and healthy joints.
Although each one of these ingredients is really good, not all supplement companies offer products that contain all of them. In case you can't find supplements that contain all of them your second top priority should be to look for supplements that contain both MSM and Glucosamine. Glucosamine, although less effective than rosehip, is proven and tested by time.
The fact is that there are a lot of different types of horse supplements. We have already talked about joint supplements for horses, but there are also horse feeds. To learn more about horse feeds check outhttp://horsecaretips.wordpress.com/2012/12/07/what-to-feed-a-horse/

The Best Experiences For Horse Lovers


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Fed up of buying that horse-mad person in your life calendars, ornaments and cuddly toys? Give them Christmas gifts they'll never forget with a special experience all centred on their favourite four-legged friend. Whether they're an accomplished jockey, part timer or simply admire these majestic creatures from afar, there are lots of ways you can indulge their obsession with these horse-inspired experiences they'll never forget.
Fancy a flutter?
All horse fanatics understand the technicalities, training and sheer talent that goes into horse racing so what better day out than a luxurious day at one of the country's top tracks? With a range of nine tracks all over the UK to choose from, nothing quite beats the thrill of a day at the races. This experience includes a premier enclosure ticket, programme, welcome drink, behind-the-scenes tour of the track plus a car parking space. And if you're feeling generous, you can even give them a bit of kitty to bet on a horse or two. You never know, they might win big. To ensure they do win big, why not book them The Inside Track to Horse Racing, a three hour tutorial from horse racing expert Charlie Mann or his professional assistant trainer at their Lambourn Stables in Berkshire (where they have trainer over 400 winning horses).
This is the real lowdown on this sport which kicks off with an early but hearty farmhouse breakfast with one of Charlie's jockeys before heading out to the gallops to watch the horses in their morning training session. Here they will learn about the training and groundwork that goes into making a horse a champion, as well as some money-can't-buy tips on spotting a winner. They'll learn more in this morning session than weeks spent at the horse track!
But if it's the real thing you want to give, how about Shares in a Racehorse, the opportunity to enjoy the benefits of full ownership including visiting the horse at the trainers yard three times a year plus attending the races as an owner. This allows you or the recipient to pick a favourite horse from the stable and the trainer will keep you up to date of its progress. The icing on the cake is watching the horse running to victory at a meet - a pretty amazing gift.
Ponies and Picnics
Great gifts for her can multi-task - and a day of horse riding with afternoon tea should fit the bill. Available at the Waltham Abbey equestrian centre, they will be given a 30 minute introductory lesson and assessment, as well as being taught the finer intricacies of how to groom and tack up their horse. A peaceful hour's ride in Epping Forest is followed by a well earned afternoon tea. If the gift recipient is an accomplished rider, horse riding and a picnic, set at the foot of Epsom Downs, would be an afternoon they'll never forget. After getting to know the horse, they will ride the horse into the beautiful area of Headley with a picnic pit-stop along the way. There are a number of experiences for horse riders of all skill level, so there's sure to be something to choose your jockey.
Steve Alexander has been writing about the best horse-related Christmas gifts, Visit Red Letter Days for more information on gifts for horse lovers or click on this link for the latest deals on days out around the UK.

How to Become an Equine Vet


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Expert Author Carole McClelland
What do I have to do to become an equine vet is a question that we are asked regularly. If this is your chosen career path it is a very competitive one and so it is important to start preparing as early as secondary school.
The first real chance you get to start preparing is choosing your options for GCSEs. We would recommend that you choose to take separate sciences where possible along with Maths and English and choose other academic subjects rather than arts or drama.
The next thing is your organised work experience with school. Try and get in early and get a slot with the local equine vets, if places are likely to be fought over it may be worth planning this way ahead so that you get the first slot.
This one week of work experience will not be enough to secure you a place at veterinary school. In addition to this you should try and get as much experience as possible over summers and other holidays whilst still studying for GCSEs and A Levels. This should include not just within veterinary practices but also on farms, working yards, even at a Zoo if possible. The more experience you can get the more likely you will be to show the selectors that you are serious.
Once you have your GCSEs you will need to move on to your A-levels. At A level the minimum requirement is 2 A's and 1 B however some universities will only consider 3 A's. The subjects you will need include Biology and either one or two subjects from Maths, Chemistry and Physics depending on the university. If your third subject is a non-scientific subject it must be considered an academic subject, again drama, arts and 'soft subjects' will not be considered.
Your school or college will advise you when you need to start looking at your university options and it is worth noting that the applications for vet school often close before applications to other courses so your UCAS application needs to be in promptly to be considered.
There are seven approved veterinary schools in the UK. These are: Liverpool (which has a fantastic equine unit and should be considered as a primary choice for those wanting to specialise in equine down the line), Glasgow, Cambridge, Bristol, Edinburgh, Nottingham and the Royal Veterinary College London.
Once you get in to university you will find that your student life is very different to those studying other courses. You will be expected to attend lectures from 9 till 5 everyday where as your peers might not do that many hours in a whole week. You will also find that you are unable to use your holidays to earn extra money as you will be out on placement and will not have time to hold down a job.
You do not specialise as an Equine Vet while at uni you still need to study the main stream veterinary course and register with the RCVS. Once graduated you may wish to join a specialist practice as a junior to gain more specialised experience with horses however you may also need to consider that depending on availability of work when you graduate you may have to spend some time in general practice.
To get further information on this or similar topics please visit Equine Professional Articles. We provide a range of articles full of useful information for those who work or are considering a career as an Equine Professional